Trivet is the first solo restaurant of Fat Duck alumni Jonny Lake and Isa Bal, which opened in Bermondsey in October 2019 – yes, shortly before having to close in March 2020 for (the first) lockdown. Despite this unlucky start, Trivet is up and running again and running at full speed, and we dropped by on a recent Saturday night to find it full and bustling. It’s a lovely modern room in a quiet lane in Bermondsey, with a separate bar to the right as you enter and a main dining room with open kitchen to the left. Everything is very relaxed and welcoming.
Perhaps unsurprisingly given Jonny and Isa’s three Michelin stars, Trivet is still a fine dining restaurant at heart and will no doubt be striving for a one star soon. The service, led by fellow Fat Duck alumnus, restaurant manager Melissa Fergus, is impeccable throughout.
We also loved Isa’s wine list, which is organized chronologically from the beginning of Georgia’s wine production history thousands of years ago to the present day. It’s a very interesting way to present wine and it’s worth reading the whole list (more than one book) even if you only drink a glass or two. While Jonny will be used to sending multi-course tasting menus to The Fat Duck, at Trivet he’s opted for a more classic a la carte offering, with your usual snacks, starters, mains and desserts, so if you are not a fan of tasting menus, you will be at home here.
We like to have a snack and a glass of bubbly while reading the main menu, and at Trivet you should definitely order the assortment of beautiful crackers flavored with beet and malt vinegar and purple cabbage and mustard, as well as a glass of Pierre Moncuit Champagne.
From the starters came our favorite dish of the night – ‘Dante’s Pici’ – which was fresh pici pasta with a creamy crab sauce that almost had us licking the plate. We also opted for ‘Mushroom and Madeira, a dish of Trivet noodles cooked in a mushroom and Madeira wine broth and topped with an absolute coating of black winter truffles and cordycep mushrooms.
“Don’t order the chicken” is an outdated rule of restaurant ordering, and Trivet has excellent poached, roasted chicken with a tangy vinegar sauce that makes it a great choice among main dishes, especially with fries and ketchup. onion. Then there’s the juicy turbot poached in citrus butter with candied delica pumpkin, black radish and a Chardonnay butter sauce.
For dessert, you pretty much have to order the signature pud, the beautiful Hokkaido Potato, a baked potato millefeuille with sake and white chocolate mousse, butter and sake ice cream. You may have seen it on a few Instagram feeds before, as it looks very impressive – we can also confirm it’s a delight.
36 Snowfields, London SE1 3SU