Restaurant review

Sunday lunch at the Chelsea Pig

It was a chilly autumn afternoon as we set off for the Chelsea Pig, walking along the King’s Road from Sloane Square past the shops and mews’ houses that always looked like they were waiting for the day. ‘winter.

After seeing the neighborhood pub-brasserie ranked among the best sunday roasts in london I was eager to find out what it was all about, and it didn’t take long to pick up on the hype.

First of all, the decor is quite striking.

Timothy Oulton, whose flagship store is moments down the basement of the Bluebird, has designed the pub as a working gallery of his collections, with leather bar stools, wooden tiled flooring and a curious cistern scuba diving accentuating its bold yet timeless style.

For the most part, tables are seated around the edges of the bar overlooking the street, which draws its fair share of tourists there to admire the rows of quintessentially British houses.

We were brought warm bread with the chef’s butter as we continued the menu, along with a cold draft of Birra Menabrea in an oval tankard.

The bun was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside while the butter was smoky and sumptuously creamy. Both were clamoring to be washed down with refreshing appetizers.

Duck liver parfait, shrimp cocktail and cracked wheat salad were all hard to pass up on the entrée menu, but we opted for the salmon and burrata.

The former was served as a long, thick piece resting on a bed of Jerusalem artichoke and a “hot toddy” vinaigrette, while the latter came with fruit such as clementines, orange and pear. .

Certainly, there can be few entries more autumnal than this.

The main course was the typical fare done really, really well.

A Sutton Hoo chicken was served with a spicy bread sauce which is among the best I have ever tasted.

Small gravy boats were quickly replenished and two huge glasses of Mendoza Malbec were served table side by the fabulous wait staff who brought a welcoming and cozy air to the room.

We finished with the Brule purple cream which had a tangy black current sorbet on top followed by the classic Brule crunch and a velvety yoghurt below.

When the composite pieces come together, it gives what was, in short, a superb finish to a superb meal.

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