Restaurant review

Restaurant Reviews: The Wild Goose, Goose Green, Altrincham

Full disclosure, this was not my first visit to the Wild Goose.

I visited some girlfriends at the end of January in the midst of the post-Christmas regime that we will call Wimming Sworld. Low-fat diets aren’t necessarily conducive to French cuisine and although I had enjoyed my choice of rib-eye “no sauce, no dressing, no fries, no fun”, I left knowing that I didn’t had in no way done justice to the menu.

Hold my low calorie diet drink.

According to the people who brought us Tre Ciccio, the Wild Goose describes itself as “retro-esque”, offering Anglo-French dishes with a modern twist.

Tucked away in the corner of Goose Green, upstairs in this wonderfully intimate space that once hosted Alty’s legendary restaurants, the candlelit aesthetic is fabulous for a get-together with friends, family and, on that occasion, a cozy and romantic table for two. But before I got carried away, I reminded myself that I had work to do. This work being the dishes I missed the first time by being all virtuous and ‘green salad, no dressing please’.

The Wild Goose describes itself as “retro-esque”, offering Anglo-French dishes with a modern twist

Right off the bat, I judge an Italian restaurant by its Caprese and so here I only had eyes for the French Onion Soup. In a lovely and traditional tureen, melted Gruyère on a floating crouton, this dish does not skimp on the onion or the smoky flavors. Traditionally I’m not a soup lover, I have weird issues with ‘drinking my food’. This soup I made an exception for and it did not disappoint.

My plus one chose the beet and red onion tarte tatin, with a crottin of goat cheese and Mache lettuce (I had to google it, it’s AKA lamb). The flavors are balanced well, the cheese cuts through the sweetness of the beets, the thin dough remains pleasantly crisp.

Mains and I was more than ready for my roast chicken “à la forêt”. The Cumbrian chicken was on the bone, succulent and flavorful, with all the ingredients in the dish sharing an equal bill for me. The wild mushrooms and generous portion of light gnocchi in a creamy, indulgent herb stew fought for my attention, but there were no favorites here, I liked all the elements equally.

On the other side of the table, my plus one chose the baked cod with mussel curry and leek mouclade. Lots to enjoy here.

The cod was reassuringly firm to cut, melt-in-your-mouth to eat, and with its savory, crispy skin topping, offered the perfect trio of textures. The generous portion of mussels was delicately flavoured, the curry aspect only complementing and never overpowering the fish.

The Wild Goose gives a rare outing to the Black Forest Cake

And while I mentally jotted down dishes to try on a future visit, the two lovely ladies at the next table assured me that their experience had been as delicious as mine, recommending the braised beef and the seared veal liver. and Bacon.

I have long had a retro love for a good Black Forest cake, but I see it so rarely on a menu. The Wild Goose promises to “create nostalgia and memories of early restaurant outings…refined and restored with a modern twist.” It continued. One dish, two spoons (I soon considered hiding his), he delivered the holy trinity of cherry, chocolate, and cream while looking like 2022.

So what did I learn? Well, apart from the fact that life is too short to hold the dressing, and that you have to act quickly if you want to order the lamb (sold out at 8 p.m.), the Wild Goose has indeed landed on the Green, with the potential to prove as legendary as its predecessors.

So what are you waiting for? Give it a look.

Wild Goose, 2 Green Geese, Altrincham WA14 1DW. Reservations: Call 0161 441 9050 or visit wildgooserestaurants.co.uk