Restaurant review

Restaurant review: Harvest Kitchen – InDaily

Some things have changed in the Barossa. While international tourism is barely recovering after a two-year hiatus, the region now appears to be in recovery mode. This usually bustling wine and food destination is much quieter than it was before the pandemic, with many wineries and restaurants having to adjust their offerings or opening hours to accommodate a more local visitor market. But the Barossans are a resilient group and there have been a series of new venues, cellar doors and restaurants opening in the hope of attracting a new wave of punters.

Otherness Wine Bar in Angaston offers an alternative to the traditional cellar door, and Culture Shock Provisions on the main street of Tanunda serves European-style snacks and drinks for those looking for a different kind of experience. Schubert Estate will open its shiny new multimillion-dollar cellar door in Marananga later this year, and last year’s state government injection of tourism funding into the area will see the renovation of the cellar doors winery in Hart of the Barossa, Schild Estate, Lambert Estate and Seppeltsfield.

But it’s not just new or improved venues that will attract new faces to the area. When Barossa artisans moved from their former home base of Vine Vale (just outside Tanunda) in early 2019, it left a vacancy for another wine company to move into the neighborhood. . Enter Calabria Family Wines. Already an established brand from the Riverina region of New South Wales producing wines from their Barossa vineyards since 2010, they decided to make their brand presence more permanent. As part of the acquisition, they also decided to maintain the on-site partnership with Harvest Kitchen.

And we should be glad they did.

Today’s lunch happened by chance – or rather, by necessity. Part of the change for many Barossa venues has been to run their operations around tours and it looks like midweek lunches are a casualty. Not at Harvest. The venue is open for lunch seven days a week (and dinner on Saturdays). A quick Google followed by a last-minute reservation on Tuesday and here we are, seated in a laid-back venue with an indoor-outdoor vibe that makes the most of panoramic views of Calabrian vineyards and the Barossa.

The Harvest menu is all about options. First, you’ll need to decide whether you want to let the kitchen team feed you “like a Barossan” for $65 per person, or select a five-course approach – one from each of five sections that have three choices – called “Feed Me Eden”. at $55 per head. I’ve seen menus with individual dishes listed for more, and when shared dishes start to land, the value here is even more amazing.

Alongside a whole sourdough with strips of whipped, flavorful cultured butter is a platter of Prosciutto di Parma, arranged on a platter under shaved fennel and scattered microgreens, but it’s slices of pickled celery that steal the show. Yes, celery. I generally consider this a bit of a vegetable waste, with its watery nothingness rarely adding anything to a dish besides crunch, but here my prejudice proved wrong. This pickle is delicious, flavorful, tangy and crunchy too, of course, with a slight fresh bitterness that solidly accompanies the prosciutto.

Prosciutto with sides including pickled celery. Picture provided

A jumbled assortment of broccoli florets with various bits come next. It’s not much to look at, but the taste tells a whole different story. Barely cooked, each floret soaks up a white bean puree that’s more than just a can of mixed beans. It’s creamy but retains some texture and has a smoky, earthy flavor with just the right balance of salt. The sweetness comes thanks to a generous proportion of dried cranberries and fresh pomegranate scattered throughout with its signature hit of sweet acid in every bite.

Harvest’s well-balanced broccoli dish. Picture provided

The star of today’s lunch (apart from the welcoming staff) is the pork sourced from Gumshire – a producer just down the road in Keyneton. Based on taste, flavor and texture, this Hampshire pig was clearly leading a comfortable life. A scrumptious scotch fillet is presented katsu (schnitzel) style, sliced ​​and spread on a bed of creamy mash, but it’s not a standard pub fare. Grilled quince was used to create a thick glaze that coats the tenderloin; it is very lightly sweet, complementing the meat rather than competing. A side of julienned celeriac coated in a light and tangy creamy sauce acts like a salad and the addition of mung beans and toasted sesame completes the flavor profile of this unpretentious but utterly delicious dish.

Harvest’s pork dish is our reviewer’s lunch star. Picture provided

Another neighbor is Hutton Vale, and their lamb is seen on menus across the Barossa and the country for good reason. They are producers who know that despite the eventual necessary fate of their stock, their care and treatment always shines through on the plate. Slow-cooked and shredded, the Harvest kitchen gave this cut the proper level of care and processing. No frills, the plate begins with a pool of tangy, salty and smoky jus; the lamb is piled on top next to a pile of pickled red cabbage to lend freshness and crunch to this otherwise meaty and normally salty plate.

Despite the temptation of a dessert list (which you can add for $12), we decide it’s time to call off lunch today. To begin with, we are sufficiently full. And it’s a Tuesday, after all.

Unapologetically Barossan, with chefs who respect the produce and master balance and flavor perfectly, Harvest Kitchen is one of those places you’ll want to revisit, for service, wine and value, if not for you. work your way through the rest of the Feed Me Eden menu.

harvest kitchen

Calabria cellar door
284 Magnolia Road, Vine Vale
(08) 875233950

Open for lunch seven days
Dinner on Saturday

Support local arts journalism

Your support will help us continue the important work of InReview in publishing free professional journalism that celebrates, questions and amplifies the arts and culture in South Australia.

Donate here