Restaurant review

Restaurant Review: Classic Dogs, Fries, and Shakes on Tap at Junkyard Dogs

While junkyards themselves don’t sound particularly appetizing, the concept of junkyard as a way of describing food products is very promising. “Junkyards” and their close associates, “garbage” and “kitchen sink” suggest a menu item with everything in between. It refers to something generous, and maybe a bit wacky at the same time. For example, Junkyard Cookies are cookies with chips, nuts and several kinds of candies. A Junkyard Burger might split the bun with fried cheese curds and pepperoni slices.

And the junkyard dogs? Well, we’ll see.

Junkyard Dogs set up shop on Dublin Granville Road in Linworth this summer. The joint celebrates eye-catching hot dog combos under a logo that celebrates another junkyard classic, the junkyard dog. In this case, it’s a vaguely grumpy bulldog. Junkyard Dogs also happens to be co-owned by a local celebrity, one Jerry Elliot, whose name might ring a bell to QFM96 listeners. He shares ownership with Ed Bisconti, owner of the popular Borgata Pizza. So, that’s two celebrities, all that.

The menu expands beyond Frankfurt fare to include related options like vegan hot dogs, brats, fries, and milkshakes.

But let’s go, okay? As designed, the namesake menu item, the dump dog ($7), comes equipped with coney sauce, “cheesy onions,” bacon, jalapeño, coleslaw, garlic aioli, and spicy brown mustard. As executed, it comes with a nice blanket of meat sauce – enough to cover the length of the dog, the cheese onions are sautéed with cheese that was unexpectedly melted on the grill. It shares significant middle ground with a cheese wafer from a tony restaurant salad. It works great on a humble hot dog, so bonus points for that. And while coleslaw isn’t usually a favorite over hot dogs, it’s pretty easy to obscure its contributions with the other combo items.

The junkyard dog

Of course, the guests don’t have to go to the complete scrapyard. There are many more conservative hot dog options. Example: the chicago dog ($7) comes with mustard, onion, relish, tomatoes, sports peppers, and a pickle. With lots of shapes on board, it gathers less cooperatively than the junkyard dog. So that objectively makes it less fun.

The Chicago Dog

For those with a creative bent, there are options to create your own masterpiece with a selection of toppings that extends beyond the candy in options like sauerkraut and sweet mustard relish or spicy. There are also a few sausage options on the menu: La italian sausage ($8) is pleasantly perky and served with grilled onions and peppers: it’s useful if not life changing.

italian sausage

For the sides you can get fries or hubcaps – zig-zag ruffled discs ($6). In regular form, the sides make great companions for dogs and can be loaded with the spectrum of Junkyard fillings.

Buffalo hubcaps

Like any decent hot dog joint, it offers a home Milkshakes as well ($7). On the expensive side, the chocolate version offers the classics: thick, sweet, slightly chocolatey, with whipped cream on top.

Chocolate milkshake

The junkyard dogs can be found at 2245 W. Dublin Granville Rd. It is open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 9pm

For more information, visit junkyardhotdogs.com.

All photos by Susan Post