Restaurant review

Restaurant Review: Brunch at Fat Badger Richmond

On a beautiful sunny day in Richmond-on-Thames, Judith Baker discovers that heading to Richmond Hill Rise for brunch after a long walk along the river watching the rowers, dog walkers and children feeding the ducks is a real treat…

Photo: The fat badger

The Fat Badger is one of Richmond’s newest and most distinctive restaurants, combining a rural farm-to-fork ethos with urban chic. This is one of many London restaurants owned by the Goodwin brothers making their mark on the London food scene.

They claim to use all locally grown and foraged things, including sustainable livestock from their own family farm. In keeping with their commitment to ‘what grows together goes together’, the wines on the menu all come from their boutique vineyard in Nutbourne, West Sussex.

A glass of sparkling The Nutbourne was definitely the perfect fizz to get us in a sunny mood. With light streaming in through floor-to-ceiling windows and views of the river, the stage was set for an elegant Saturday brunch experience.

Fat Badger is artfully decorated with striking blue walls, marble topped tables, colorful paintings, oak floors and pink and green furniture.

The menu here isn’t a list of the usual ubiquitous brunch dishes, though it does include the classics. The menu champions British produce and promises spoils from the English countryside and coast.

We were intrigued by the sound of a Marmite mushroom eclair which came across as a nice little appetizer. And in keeping with the Marmite slogan, I savored mine while my husband pushed his on his plate.

After that I chose a lovely fresh smoked trout with Hollandaise, poached eggs and grilled toast and my husband had the perfectly cooked rump steak, a fried egg with Lyonnaise onions and crispy potatoes. The dishes are served on unusual artisanal plates.

The menu also includes counter-shucked AAA Maldon oysters, honey-glazed gammon benedict, mushroom stew and the hearty Badger English Breakfast.

Brunch isn’t brunch in our book without a Bloody Mary, and Badger’s version of this classic brunch cocktail doesn’t disappoint.

Other cocktails on the menu, including the oyster martini and the British negroni, seemed to pack a similar punch. Service was friendly and attentive, and The Fat Badger is dog and kid friendly, making it a lovely place for families and couples.

The brasserie is open all day with ‘Sundays on the Farm’ promising a memorable Sunday roast and lunch menus as well as an interesting a la carte offering and bar menu.

Other restaurants in the Goodwin brothers’ Local & Wild portfolio include The Shed in Notting Hill, Nutbourne in Battersea, Rabbit in Chelsea and Sussex in Soho.

All food served is overseen by Chef-Director Oliver Goodwin who creates seasonal menus that demonstrate his flair for creative cuisine.

Brunch hours: Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m.
Address: 15-17 Hill Rise, Richmond TW10 6UQ