Restaurant review

Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: ‘Lady Helen of Mount Juliet is without a doubt two Michelin star level’

John Kelly is a man on a mission. After retaining a Michelin star this year at Lady Helen of the Mount Juliet Estate in Kilkenny – first awarded in 2014 when her predecessor Cormac Rowe was executive chef – Kelly is vying for a second star.

Over the years I have dined several times at Lady Helen — from the time when it was good, country cooking, and when culinary ambitions were beginning to rise. I remember being invited to a dinner prepared by the late great French chef Albert Roux, which included the Queen Mother’s favorite soufflé. Red gave us a night to remember and on my last visit so did John Kelly.